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Wow No posts Since Feb 4! Its Catch Up Time AND the amazing Sonya Baumstein

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Well time off from boating for a pleasurable trip to Atlanta and another in Portland, Oregon, both with family, plus a LOT of cold weather this winter has slowed progress. When the daily high temperature does not reach 40, I do not do boat work. At the end of this post is Sonya Baumstein, well worth waiting for.

The fourth day of the removing of old anti-barnacle paint from the bottom (3.25 hours is a days work according to my by then achy muscles) has gotten the aft 1/3 of the boat scraped off. Now the sander comes into play to really clean and give a "tooth" to the bottom before a couple coats of ridiculously expensive "barrier" coat paint and then equally expensive bottom paint. Only the aft 1/3, you ask? Yes, alas, Rome was not built in a day; the complete bottom job will be spread out over at least three seasons. And because we will go south next winter, the next two winters out of the water for this will be 2015-16 and 2016-17. The parts not done "right" this winter will be spotted out (sanding at the bare spots and then painted over, before the entire boat gets its last coat.

Also, I have spent more time working inside the pumping mechanisms of the two marine heads. And Ive obtained all the replacement parts I need. Now all I have to do is call the friendly helpful techie at Groco to get a couple of hints on how to put humpty dumpty back together again. Here is more than you ever wanted to know about the inside of a Groco head, with its white porcelain bowl removed. The extreme left black piece at the bottom of the photo is the rubber Joker valve and its round flange fits between the two parts of large white hose to the left and forms the gasket sealing them and creating the passage for sewage to leave the head, for either the holding tank or for overboard discharge, out at sea.
The large black disk at the bottom is the rubber gasket between the unit you see and the bowl. The most extreme right round looking piece is the piston for the pump with two white plastic rings that seal it, and just to its left is a valve, currently upside down that sits above the piston and lets water from the bowl to the pumps chamber. Have you had enough yet? I thought so. Too much? Sorry about that.

Other work has involved snow and ice removal. While in Atlanta, a thick crust of ice had formed atop the blue canvas winter cover-- a lot of weight up so high. And I surely could not get at it from the top because it is too far off the ground. So I crawled into the airspace between the deck and the bottom of the cover and pushed up and out to shake the snow and ice off the cover. And I threw out my back a bit in the process. Also, despite the cover, water enters the boat through its top and collects in the bilge and freezes. This had to be chopped up with the ice pick and then access to the water beneath the ice was available for the manual pump into the bucket. All in a days work.

In Oregon we visited the Historical Society Museum which has a full room devoted to the history of the Battleship Oregon, nicknamed the "Bulldog of the Sea." She served our nation from before the Spanish American War through and after WWI and was much beloved by her home state (though she was built in California). Battleships were the largest and proudest of the navy, though they became relatively obsolete with the advent of air power projected from aircraft carriers. The most amazing thing about the Oregon, to me, was her size -- 346 feet! This is tiny by todays standards. Big compared to ILENEs 43 feet, but the USS Hammerberg, DE-1015 was 306 feet long. A tiny thin hulled Destroyer Escort almost as big as a heavily armor-plated mighty Battleship!

And we had the pleasure of a visit to the Harlem YC by Sonya Baumstein. Who is Sonya Baumstein, you might ask? Well she ROWED, with three men who she recruited as her crew, across the Atlantic from the Azores to the West Indies in a 23 foot rowboat.

This 57 day adventure was choped into two hour shifts: two for rowing and two for eating, cleaning, repairing and sleeping -- continuously, for 57 days. Thats twelve hours of rowing per day! Sonya had dinner with us and then presented her slide show.  I dont know how old she is but her poise and intelligence made her an absolute pleasure to be around.  Her ease in presenting her story and her self deprecation while speaking was endearing because it was a display of natural humility...and this coming from a young woman who goes so far beyond what any of us in the room has ever done!  I think I speak for all who attended when I say she was a big hit!
Since her Atlantic adventure she paddled a stand up paddle board, across the frigid waters of the Bering Strait from Russia to Alaska in eleven hours, this time wearing a drysuit and accompanied by a small fishing boat.  She also bicycled from San Diego to Seattle and paddled a kayak from there to northern Alaska. Many exciting, scary and funny incidents on each adventure.
Her next adventure, planned for April 2015 -- is a solo row in a newer, better designed boat from Japan to the US, scheduled to take from four to six months. And she does a lot of marine biology research along the way. For more info, google sonyabaumstein.com. As she told her story, including her graduation from College and Graduate school and her recovery from being hit by an automobile which took three years of multiple surgeries to recover from, before these adventures began, we could see how much she has learned about the seas, currents and winds since she set off from the Azores. I predict greater success for her next crossing.A portion of the enthralled Harlemites:
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Feb 7 Fast Ferry To The Dry Tortugas Zero miles on ILENE

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The fast ferry, seen here at the destination, took us (and up to 198 other folks) the 61.9 nautical miles to this national park at an average speed of almost 25 knots. The passage outbound, starting with check in at 7:15 a.m. was pleasant, with a NE wind and waves on our starboard quarter. Approachiong the island requires a 360 degree circling of the island, counter clockwise. (You can see most of the cruising boats that came here on their own behind the ferry.) There is a faster way to get here than the ferry though:
We met a lovely couple, Suri and Carlos, from Miami They are power boaters and fishermen. They escaped Cuba (before they met) by getting  passes to visit Spain and then obtaining sponsorship into the US from relatives. My father did this in the 1930s, escaping from Hitlers Germany first to France and then obtaining sponsorship into the USA.

The ferry served a big wholesome (not gourmet) buffet breakfast on the way out and a lunch at mid-day, included in the price with coffee and water all day, use of the snorkel equipment, admission to the National Park and guided tours, all for $155 per person. Snorkeling was one of the featured activities and I dressed accordingly, but we did not enter the water for two reasons: (1) too much other stuff to do, such as Ranger Ricks  (his real name) informative talk, and
(2) the wind whipped up waves and created a wind chill.





These pilings which supported a former coal dock were the suggested snorkel place, but not with waves knocking you about.

The ride home was wild, going so fast over the now larger waves on our port bow. Many people got seasick because the huge ferry was leaping and lurching. We returned to shore at 5:15 after a rather full day.

Fort Jefferson fell victim to advances in naval weaponry, particularly rifled cannon, which permitted bigger shells to be thrown further, sort of like when a football pass is thrown with a good spiral.

Dr. Samuel Mudd set the leg of the assassin of President Lincoln. He was convicted of participating in the conspiracy and sentenced to life on this dreary hot dry fortified sandbar.
His sentence was later commuted by President Andrew Johnson in response to a petition by the soldiers, jailers and prisoners here after he saved lives during a yellow fever epidemic.

Fort Jefferson is claimed to be the largest masonry structure in the western hemisphere, made of sixteen million bricks: "the Gibraltar of the Gulf."
You can get a sense of its size by looking at the people in front. Its six sides with salients on each corner and its surrounding moat covers most of its sandbar, Garden Key. You would not want to climb the outer seawall, swim across the moat and attack to fort while being gunned down by grape shot from the salients at each end of the side.















Salient with the light house and a 15 inch diameter cannon atop:







Actually there is a taller lighthouse 2.5 miles even further west, on Loggerhead key, seen dead center on the horizon, if you look closely.
Fort Jefferson was built and fortified for a negative reason: to prevent other nations from taking the place if it had not been strongly defended. It was strategically desirable because it commands a position at the far western end of the Keys around which shipping between the Gulf and the Atlantic has to pass and because a little known spot deep enough for anchoring battleships lies three miles north. Not a single shot was ever fired in war from Fort Jefferson.
Dry Tortugas National Park is also a bird sanctuary.

We saw huge frigate birds floating almost satationary on the updrafts that the forts three story walls create. Next are the first thousand of the 50,000 sootie terns who are coming here from western Africa for the mating season and screeching above the formerly separate and adjacent -- and now recently connected -- Bush Key.
Im hoping to replace my bird photographs with ones taken by an expert professional photographer with his strong telescopic lens, Richard King, of  richardkingphoto.com.


A fun full day. Lene was right; better by ferry.

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